TEN GENDARMES IN THE MARKET OF A TINY VILLAGE IN PROVENCE IN JANUARY? MAIS OUI, IT’S TRUFFLE SEASON!

Posted on January 20, 2014February 13, 2016 by Susan Manfull

Every Thursday morning from mid-November through February, truffle vendors file into Aups for the region’s most popular retail market for “Tuber melanosporum,” otherwise known as the "black truffle." And following close behind are chefs from local restaurants, agents working on behalf of culinary establishments in Paris, people like me who simply love truffles, tax inspectors, and more gendarmes than a village of 2000 should ever expect to see, even at the annual peak of tourism in August. This ...

NORTH AFRICAN COUSCOUS, PROVENCE ROSÉ, AND RHONE RED: A COSMOPOLITAN COMBINATION THAT WARMS BOTH BODY AND SOUL

Posted on January 12, 2014February 13, 2016 by Susan Manfull

Provence is a melting pot of immigrants and nowhere is this more apparent than in Marseille where residents hail from neighboring Italy and Spain as well as Greece, Armenia, Indochina, and West and North Africa. Given that Marseille is the Mediterranean Sea’s largest port (and Europe’s second-largest), its cosmopolitan composition is not surprising. Upwards of a quarter of the population of France’s second largest city has roots from North Africa, especially Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria (ref...

A CUP OF TEA FROM PALAIS DES THÉS

Posted on December 30, 2013December 30, 2015 by Susan Manfull

Part three of a three-part series about what you may find in Provence after the “big supper” (otherwise known as the “Gros Souper”) on Christmas Eve. There’s simply nothing like a cup of tea to slow down the frantic pace of the holidays, soothe the harried nerves, and warm the seasonal spirit. We have been thoroughly enjoying Palais des Thés’ No 25 limited edition collection of four blends of tea—black, green, rooibos, and white—each flavored with orange peels, red rose petals, almonds, ...

CALISSONS, CROQUETTES, BEAUMES DE VENISE, AND TEA FROM PALAIS DES THÉS: THESE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS IN PROVENCE AT CHRISTMAS

Posted on December 8, 2013December 30, 2015 by Susan Manfull

“Calissons” is the first of a three-part series that focuses on what you may find in Provence after the “big supper” (otherwise known as the “Gros Souper”) on Christmas Eve, Called “the thirteen desserts of Christmas” or “Les Treize Desserts de Noël,” tradition dictates that the desserts consist of dried fruit and nuts, fresh fruit, and sweets totaling 13 desserts to represent Jesus Christ and his 12 apostles at the Last Supper. The desserts are set out after Midnight Mass, all at once, on...

TWO BOTTLES OF ROSÉ FROM PROVENCE’S CHÂTEAU PIGOUDET: ONE FOR THANKSGIVING AND THE OTHER FOR LEFTOVERS (MY FAVORITE MEAL!)

Posted on November 28, 2013December 30, 2015 by Susan Manfull

Rosé can be the perfect match for your turkey and its varied trimmings, especially when it comes from Provence, the birthplace of rosé. With hundreds of years of practice making this wine, it is not surprising that the best rosés in the world hail from this region. Light yet complex, nicely balanced fruit and acidity, Provence rosés are refreshing to one’s palate and versatile enough to go with the myriad foods typically found on the traditional Thanksgiving table. (Keep a bottle chilled for the...

PROVENCE CHRISTMAS MARKETS: LOURMARIN’S MARCHÉ DE NOËL IS DELIGHTFUL

Posted on November 18, 2013January 23, 2016 by Susan Manfull

Although lavender, poppies, and leisurely lunches with rosé at poolside tables are the typical draw to Provence, Christmas Markets—Les Marchés de Noël—are another wonderful reason to visit this region. Okay, it is cold but the sun is bright, the relaxed pace prevails, and the spirit of Christmas warms your heart. The Christmas markets of Alsace are the most famous in France and probably the most authentic since that region neighbors Germany where such markets are thought to have originated wa...

PATRICIA WELLS IN MY KITCHEN

Posted on November 3, 2013December 30, 2015 by Susan Manfull

Okay, Patricia Wells is not really in my kitchen. But her new book, The French Kitchen Cookbook: Recipes and Lessons from Paris and Provence, has occupied a prominent place in my kitchen since I met its author last week in Darien, Connecticut. Wells made a stop at the Darien Library as part of her cross-country book tour to promote her newest entry in to the category of French cuisine cooking. The event, sponsored by Barrett Bookstore, packed the room with close to 200 people. Mostl...

TASTING WINE AT THE NEW YORK CITY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL: “CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS — THE ROSÉ LIFESTYLE OF SAINT-TROPEZ”

Posted on October 28, 2013December 29, 2015 by Susan Manfull

To learn more about Provence rosé and Château d’Esclans, please read my earlier post, “Château d’Esclans’ Garrus Rosé Bedazzles.” I am grateful to Win Rhoades, proprietor of South Street and Vine in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, for his quick lesson in viticulture. Any errors here are not those of Paul Chevalier or Win Rhoades; they are mine (although they may be related to drinking wine while taking notes!) What could be more fun than sitting in front of six glasses of pale ros...

UPDATE: ANSWERS FROM MARC PERRIN ABOUT “THE CURIOUS CASE OF MIRAVAL’S GRAPES”

Posted on October 16, 2013December 29, 2015 by Susan Manfull

This morning I received an email from Marc Perrin, from Famille Perrin (the well-known multi-generational wine family from Châteauneuf-de-Pape that is now in partnership with Château Miraval). As readers of Sunday’s TMT post (10/13/13) about Miraval’s grapes are aware, I had written to him but had not received a response prior to posting “The Curious Case of Miraval’s Grapes.” For those of you who are curious, I have answers. A little background: Famille Perrin, according to their website, ...