1. Boy, does this post take me back… and make me want to go back again soon! While we have only dined in two of the above-mentioned places, I can easily see how your list of 20 might be just the tip of an iceberg! Alors, there is only one thing to do! Plan another trip! ~David

    PS – this post should have started with a warning: do not read if hungry…

  2. after reading the first four, i had to stop. so much good food — so many charming places. just made me want to find a place like that here for lunch!! i shall return to this post often and savor each description as if it were a course in one of the fine meals described (and pictured). nicely done. global grammy

  3. Since our first trip to Provence is this summer, this post was most welcome. Your descriptions, Susan, are superb. Although I'd like to go to all 20, I know we'll want some "at home" dinners on the patio with a roast chicken. I always enjoy the kid anecdotes and references to your own daughter, as we will be traveling with 2 enfants. It's nice to know children are welcome, but I can't imagine our Henry ordering rack of lamb! So, cute!
    Merci, Sharon

  4. Nearly four years have rolled by since our joint adventure in and around Lourmarin. Another trip is in order, if not over due! Is there a bumper sticker, "So many meals, so little time" ?

    We went to two of our VERY favorite restaurants!


  5. Hi Global Grammy,

    It was a fun post to write! Finally, I just had to narrow down the list to a smaller radius around Lourmarin as there really are so many good places. I know you are a lover of salads, perhaps a post on where to find the best salads is a good idea!


  6. Sharon,
    I will look forward to hearing where you and your family end up going. You are right about the "at home" dinners–they are some of our most memorable! The roast chicken from the Lourmarin market and the salmon from the Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market are two of our favorite center pieces for our dinners or lunches! Oh yes, and take-out pizza from Le Pan Garni with a big salad from produce from the local market!

    When our daughter was Henry's age, we gave her a sketch pad to take to the restaurant as the courses do require some patience on the part of little ones. Alex has always loved La Louche au Beurre, what is now called Pizzeria Nonni, Le Castelas, and the restaurants in Buoux. They are casual and offer a little more freedom to get up from the table if necessary. Le Chateau, in the Calanques near Marseille, is also a great choice with children in mind–because it overlooks the beautiful blue water of the calanques and there is the promise of a pretty walk after lunch!

    Have fun and keep me posted! Henry may be ordering rack of lamb by the end of the trip!


  7. Susan – This couldn't be more timely! We are in Mallorca and head to Lourmarin on Friday. We will study your list closely and plan our attack. We "only" have 9 days in Lourmarin and are looking forward to having many memorable meals! Bisous – Kirsten

  8. Hi Troubadors,
    I would like to add that lovely tea shop just a few doors down from La Bonbonniere. My journal notes tell me that it is called The dans l'Encrier ("The" is missing the accent to make it "tea" in French). Your friends Pierre and Muriel owned it when we were visiting a few years ago. The lunches were light, flavorful, and very attractive.
    Jenny B. in Portland, OR.

  9. Bonjour Susan!

    I thought you would be interested in this feedback from a new friend of ours that has been living in Lourmarin for about 15 years. I sent her the link to your blog and this is what she wrote back…..The reference to Grain de Sel is a bistro here in Marseille that has been voted the Best Bistro in all of France! We have been several times and still plan on going back….

    **I think the link that you sent me had every restaurant in Lourmarin and some surrounding villages! La Fennière has been one of the star attractions for many years. I believe that Reine Sammut was one of the first women chefs to get a Michelin star. One of my favorites is the Closerie in Ansouis. Their food is very good in a simple kind of way, kind of like at the Grain de Sel although perhaps not as inventive. La Petite Maison is a bit overrated I think. The food is much too oily and salty for me. La Louche au Beurre is also good, but very simple and a bit expensive, although that could be said for pretty much all the restaurants in the area. Pizzaria Nonni is also good and on the more reasonable side. A restaurant that is not mentioned is La pebre d'ail in Lauris. You have to book in advance for lunch. They serve incredible amounts of food in a prix fixe menu for under 20 euros with wine! You have to be really hungry to get through everything that they serve.**

    Take good care—-Kristina.

    K R I S T I N A L O G A N

  10. Kirsten ~ Do let us know where you go! As I wrote in my email to you, I encourage you to investigate those restaurants I mentioned at the beginning of the post but left off the list (in an effort to keep it shorter!). Happy traveling…happy eating!

  11. Jenny~ Good notes! Yes, that is a sweet place with a very good lunch and terrific desserts! We always stop by and have a tomato tart and salad, along with some chilled rose wine, followed by one of their luscious fruit tarts, and a cup of tea! You will find new owners who will greet you warmly: Muriel and Pierre sold the tea salon to Christophe and Mapi a few years ago. Also, it may be good to know that Mapi speaks fluent English. Thanks for the addition!


  12. …wonderful Susan, I know we can count on you letting us know what good eateries happens to be in 'our' area of la belle Provence….however, you need to add the little very wonderful restraurant to your list….'Lou Pebre d'Ail' in Lauris….wonderful lunches and dinners at very resonable prices….and also another wonderful resuratant in Merindol 'La Bastide du Grand Tilleul', wonderful ambience – sitting outside in the summer….and the food is wonderful…. 🙂 PS! When are you over next?"
    Lis Steeden

  13. Reading The Modern Trobadors is a wonderful way to spend a quiet Sunday morning! Chet and I returned to Lou Pebre d'ai, Ave Joseph Garnier, Lauris, three times during our visit to Lourmarin. I took photos of the quaint interior of the restaruant and was inspired to do a painting upon our return to Cape Cod. We look forward to a return visit to the area in 2013 – meanwhile, we will be faithful followers of your blog.
    Mary Jane Conary

  14. Hi Mary Jane,
    It seems that EVERYONE loves Lou Pebre! I can't wait to go! I just took a look at your paintings which are beautiful–I would love to see the Lou Pebre one–could I have a peek?
    So glad you like the blog!
    Best regards,

  15. Hi Lis,
    We have to have a rendezvous at one of these wonderful restaurants…perhaps Lou Pebre!
    Good to hear from you.
    All the best,

  16. Kristina,
    Thanks so much for your note. Good to hear that there is some agreement with a local foodie. Lou Pebre, a restaurant I did mention but apparently not prominently enough, is a real favorite! I must go! It sounds like the Grain de Sel should be on my list, too!

    Enjoy the rest of your stay!

    My Best to you and your family,

  17. Hi Susan,
    Love your site!! You have given us great ideas for this summer.
    Along with my sister and her family, we have rented a large home in Provence. Great times are planned. Your restaurant guide for Lourmarin will serve us well. We plan to do a lot of eating! We have lived in France, but not in Provence!
    When are you going back?

  18. Good evening from Le Moulin de Lourmarin!

    Please be advised that we now have a new chef who started in February 2013.

    Her name is Nadège SERRET and she will be glad to welcome you with her team on our terrace or in the vaulted dining room with its rustic flagstones which calls to mind the authentic, agricultural past of the Luberon and to make you discover her carte and menus based on seasonal local products…

    We all hope to see you soon!

  19. Hello, I recently discovered your blog and LOVE IT! Thank you for all the amazing tips. We will be renting a place just west of Menerbes the first week in August. Do you have any dinner recommendations over that way? We only have one night out (date night, when my in-laws will be watching our 1 year old) and would love somewhere special for my husband and me! Thank you so much!

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