I never met Peter Mayle when he was living in Lourmarin—despite sharing a few friends, an affinity for Café Gaby, and a fondness for Château Constantin Chevalier rosé. I still harbor the hope that someday I may have the pleasure of his acquaintance even though, about two years ago, Mayle and his wife Jennie moved from their home in Lourmarin to the neighboring village of Vaugines. Ah, but that tiny village is just a few kilometers from Lourmarin and happens to be one of my favorite Luberon villages.   Vaugines is listed in only one of the many tour books I have on my shelves…

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Sixty kilometers (38 miles) from Lourmarin, in the French department Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, lies Forcalquier where, every Monday morning, a lively market transforms the sleepy city. It is well worth the hour-or-so drive from Lourmarin to go to the market as well as to see a different side of Provence. So different that, in fact, some would not even consider this area Provence. Technically, Forcalquier is part of Provence. The administrative region of Provence-Alpes-Côte-d’Azure (PACA) certainly includes the departments of Vaucluse, Bouches-du-Rhône, Alpes-Maritimes, parts of Hautes-Alpes, as well as Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. Ask most people what departments define Provence and most will include at least the Vaucluse, the Bouches-du-Rhone,…

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Sometimes I wonder what draws people to Lourmarin. I have visited many villages now, some completely devoid of appeal—even in Provence, such villages do exist—and others with loads of appeal—things tourist books like to mention such as breathtaking views, perfectly manicured window boxes, picturesque squares, streets lined with high-end boutiques, a river running through the center of town, or a perched locale—but, when I return to Lourmarin, a humble village whose charm does not gush out all over but rather seeps, gently, into your heart, I smile broadly and oh-so happily. For generations, its draw has been immensely strong for many people. Lourmarin’s appeal was…

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